OLFACTORY FAMILIES.

THE CITRUS OLFACTORY FAMILY.

IT’S THE TALK OF THE TOWN, BUT HOW MUCH DO WE REALLY KNOW?

I want to dedicate a special insight to an olfactory family that is perhaps the most known of all, but in my opinion few really know its depths: Citrus or Hesperides (the Hesperides were the guardians, according to Greek mythology, of the orange garden).

And speaking of olfactory families, I have always imagined and compared Citrus Fruits to a real family nucleus.

Orange is maternal it has sweet facets. It is fresh, but in a special way that embraces and comforts you, just like a mother would. Therefore, I see it as the mother of the family.

Lemon, on the other hand, is sparkling, almost pungent and very bright. It is the restless son, the one who never stands still, but is nice and playful.

Mandarin is a sweeter and more tranquil fragrance: it is the good son who looks at you peacefully with his tenderness.

The grapefruit, with bitter and authoritative, more masculine facets is, consequently, the father.

Finally comes the rich uncle of America: the bergamot, with 1000 facets, very rich, aristocratic and with a full bouquet that gives us an unforgettable nuance. It is also the most expensive.

THE CITRUS OLFACTORY FAMILY. DESCRIPTION.

The Citrus family is characterized by the massive presence of citrus essential oils which are cold extracted through the expression of the peels of the fruits, such as bergamot, orange, lemon, grapefruit and mandarin.

Among the top notes of this olfactory family we can also have the presence of some aromatic notes to accentuate the freshness.

The choice of a citrus perfume is mistakenly associated only with the summer season. That’s actually not completely correct because citrus notes, by nature, stimulate the nervous system and are therefore also suitable for the winter months to corroborate and energize a dull mental and physical state that is typically much appreciated in the cold season.

CITRUS OLFACTIVE FAMILY. THE DETAILS.

Essential oils obtained from citrus peels are inserted in the olfactory pyramid of a perfume as top notes because they immediately reach the nose with their freshness. They are a sort of landlord who welcomes guests, while trying to capture their attention.

To make a citrus scent more persistent, we first play with the heart notes, such as flowers, fruits, spices, for example, and then with the base notes, like wood, amber, musk, and resins.

For example my Extrait de Parfum Agrums. The sparkling accord of lemon, grapefruit, bergamot and orange that marries the aromatic note of sage and a touch of clove.

Finally, it is filled with majestic notes of cedar wood, with the gentle elegance of white musk – round and aristocratic. It precedes the refined and sensual ambergris that closes the circle.

HISTORICAL CITRUS SCENTS. THE EAU DE COLOGNE.

Among the citrus fruits, the most famous form is the Eau de Cologne, considered the first technical accord of perfumery.

The Eau de Cologne is therefore a particular form of citrus perfume that has very present top notes that are mainly citrus notes. The top notes can also include aromatic notes like rosemary or lavender, some heart notes that are usually flowery or green. Base notes, however, are not used very much.

Citrus notes in this case can also make up to 90% of the composition of the fragrance, making it very fresh and light.

EAU DE COLOGNE. A STORY WITH ANCIENT ROOTS.

The true inventor of the Eau de Cologne is Giovanni Paolo Feminis. Of Piedmont origins, born at the end of the 1600s, he emigrated to Cologne in Germany in search of fortune where he eventually opened a distillery.

At that time the perfumes on the market were very strong with heavy notes often used to cover various malodours and scents since personal hygiene was not a prominent and widespread phenomenon. Feminis had the idea of reassuming the formula of the Queen of Hungary water, which boasted exceptional qualities. It was an alcoholic perfume containing tonic principles such as rosemary, and later, also citrus fruits.

It was even said that in the previous centuries he cured and made Queen Isabella of Hungary, gouty and old, so attractive that the grand duke of Lithuania, beautiful and young, asked her for her hand in marriage (she refused…).

Feminis probably used this base together with ancient recipes of herbalist friars, to formulate its Aqua Mirabils with therapeutic properties and fresh and tonic notes such as rosemary, lavender, citrus fruits, orange blossom…

Subsequently, his nephew, Giovanni Maria Farina arrived in Cologne from Piedmont who oversaw its marketing under the name of “eau admirable de Cologne” (in those days the official language was French). It became famous throughout Europe, loved by kings and queens, by great poets and the famous people of that time.

Fame also led to counterfeiting and disputes. The most important features Mulhens, who bought the formula and the license from an heir of the Farinas which later proved to be invalid. For this reason they also founded a production in Germany and still today produce their Cologne with the name 4711, which represents the house number of the company.

Another Farina then went to Paris to sell his Eau de Cologne and then to sell the rights to Roger and Gallet. And this too is still on the market.

Finally, we cannot forget Pierre Francois Pascal Guerlain, who in the mid-1800s rose to fame of perfumers because he became the official perfumer of the Empress Eugenie, Napoleon’s wife. He formulated the Eau de Cologne Imperiale for her and used the bottle as a symbol to the empire, which remains in use to this day.

We can understand what a great revolution this new type of perfume was. It was completely different from those in use at the time: with fresh and tonic notes, very low use of essential oils, by the use pharmaceutical properties and a lively, fresh, luminous bouquets.

I think it is the only formula that, despite having more than 300 years of history, is still on the market today.

I hope you enjoyed this article of mine and that you found curiosity to enrich your “olfactory baggage”.